“Craic is an atmosphere,” says Tom, owner of one of the island’s traditional estates, Shelburne Lodge in Kenmare. We are on the west coast of Ireland and have driven four hours on the wrong side of the road to get here. We have just been welcomed to a beautiful country house, built by a prime minister a couple of hundred years ago, now it’s Tom who rules here. Ring of Kerry We are served tea and biscuits on the finest porcelain by a servant. It is fire in the fireplace, guests who greet, old bookshelves, ancient books wherever we look, the Irish are known to be well educated and very talkative. Tom is…